To Do What I’ve Never Done Before: An Everest Base Camp Travelog of Syed

“When you are trekking to the Base Camp of Everest, it is challenging, it is tough, it is scary, it is daunting and it is exhausting. But then, when you look up to witness the stunning landscape around you, you get to know that whilst it is all of the above, more than anything, it is rewarding and completely worth it. One has to definitely go out in the mountains. They will make you modest. They will make you humble. They will make you feel that the world is a much bigger place than where you live.”

“The long-distance hiker, a breed set apart,
From the likes of the usual pack.
He’ll shoulder his gear, be hittin’ the trail;
long gone, long ‘fore he’ll be back.”
– M.J. Eberhart

Everyone has their own set of ‘escape’ routines. Some find nature’s lap a bliss, some take a day off to the beach, some visit destinations with loved ones and some grab a cold one in a wooden cabin away from the hustle. Well, there is one more breed of humans, who find solace in trekking to the most challenging trails and terrains. This story of Syed Munazzir Ahmed is of the same sort.

When you are stationed in your transport amidst traffic and you look at the ticking clock which seems to be running faster than the usual, you pray, ‘if only you had enough time and a route without traffic’. The ones who choose to trek the mountains and trails have a completely different problem, they have time and route without traffic, but what actually they pray for is ‘the will and strength to keep moving forward’.
As easy as it may sound, you cannot replicate or estimate the experience of trekking if you’ve not scuffled with it on a personal note. Syed who had trekked in past on a moderately challenging ground took on one of the most challenging tasks of trekking to the Everest Base Camp in Dec, 2017.

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The Everest Base Camp

The Everest Base Camp is either of two base camps on opposite sides of Mount Everest. South Base Camp is in Nepal at an altitude of 5,364 meters (17,598 ft) and North Base Camp is in Tibet at 5,150 meters (16,900 ft). The itinerary which Syed chose was to trek to the Everest Base Camp in Nepal with the 140 km climb for over a period of 13 days with a 10 kg backpack at the high altitude.

“The very thought of standing at the Base Camp of the world’s highest mountain itself is so exciting. When you are trekking to the Base Camp of Everest, it is challenging, it is tough, it is scary, it is daunting and it is exhausting. But then, when you look up to witness the stunning landscape around you, you get to know that whilst it is all of the above, more than anything, it is rewarding and completely worth it. One has to definitely go out in the mountains. They will make you modest. They will make you humble.”, Syed quotes on the question of why he chose to scale the Everest Base Camp?

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Training

“Train hard and Trek slow”, was the key for Syed. He mentions that any trek experience demands you to train to simulate the difficulty level of what you’d be going through. To train for the Everest Base Camp was whole other ball game. You need to be at your absolute best ad disciplined in the training.



Taking uphill walks, jogs runs, push-ups, sit-ups, breathing exercises are important along with preparing yourself mentally. “The Everest Base Camp trek not only tests you physically but mentally as well”.

Syed trained for two months prior to taking the trek and did so religiously. He knew the key was to be prepared for all the possible hardships of the trek. Your training comes handy on the trail.

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Expect the Unexpected

When your itinerary states The Everest Base Camp as the destination, you must expect all the unexpected and should plan your itinerary with buffer days. Syed and his group were stranded in Kathmandu waiting for their flight to Lukla for two straight days, due to the bad weather in Lukla.

Syed recalls from his diary note, “Lots of things going on in my mind. Should I return back home leaving behind this dream or just stick around and keep trying? But for how many days? Will I be able to take a 12-hour off-road jeep ride to Phaphlu, trek for 3 days to Lukla and then trek to EBC? I don’t know”. But Syed kept patience and was able to get on the flight on the 3rd day.
The loss of days due to the delayed flight resulted in a revised itinerary for Syed and the group. The 13-day trek was reduced to 9 days which meant more trekking hours and fewer acclimatization days.
One should know that when you go on a high altitude trek in India  like the Everest Base Camp, you need the acclimation time for your body to get used to the weather, altitude and oxygen levels. This helps you trek better and be in better health. If you skip or try to brave through this, chances are you’ll end up returning from your dream trek. Nature is harsh that way.

The Mighty Trek to The Everest Base Camp (Day 5 – Day 10)

On the whole trek, Syed was keeping his journal and was making entries throughout the trek daily. This enabled us to highlight the excerpts of his trek days for our readers.

Day 5: Lukla (2840 m) to Benkar (2630 m)



“It was an easy downhill climb reducing us by ~200 mt in altitude. This long duration hike gave us all a glimpse of what is to come in the days ahead”.

The group also had their Sherpa (the mentor/lead on the trek) with them. The Sherpa himself tried to scale Mt. Everest in 2015 but failed for the unfortunate earthquake in the region.

Day 6: Benkar (2630 m) to Namche Bazaar (3440 m)

“You will get your first glimpse of the mighty Everest, weather permitting. It was playing peek-a-boo with us behind the clouds. The final 3-hour uphill push towards Namche gets very tough where you will be gasping for breath.”

Day 7: Trek from Namche Bazaar (3440 m) to Pangboche (3930 m)

“Crazy hike from 8 in the morning to 6 in the evening. The second part of the hike post lunch was very exhausting with no views due to cloud cover. Very tiring and I have a mild headache. Sherpa to decide on a one-day extension looking at our team’s health condition tomorrow. Bitter cold here.”, Syed recalls.
The group witnessed some stunning views of the snow-capped peaks on the trek that day. Although to make up for the loss of delayed days, because of initial flight cancellation, the group did not halt at Tengboche for a night and pushed to trek all the way up to Pangboche (3930 m). The additional 2-hour walk took its toll and 4 of the 8 member team were down with a headache, possibly mountain sickness.

Day 8: Trek from Pangboche (3930 m) to Dingboche (4410 m)

“You will start gasping for breath for every harsh physical move you make, due lack of oxygen. This can be further witnessed by observing the vegetation around. On the first 2 days, you had walked through thick green forests, you will now start seeing shrubs and dry grass all around. Courtesy: lack of oxygen. The terrain will get drier as you gain more elevation. Difficult days ahead.”

Day 9: Dingboche (4410 m) to Lobuche (4910 m)

After a 3-hour moderate walk and the 1-hour uphill climb, the group reached The Everest Memorial, which is built in the memory of all those who have lost their lives up there. Hundreds of prayer-flag-engulfed-stones, each designated to a lost life on Everest were in sight.
“Another day in the mountains and high altitude. 2 team members are struggling. They are considering for a helicopter evacuation through insurance if their health deteriorates further.”

Day 10: Lobuche (4910 m) – Gorakshep (5140 m) – The Everest Base Camp (5356 m) – Gorakshep (5140 m)

The group crossed its mark of 5000m that day witnessing the breathtaking views of Mount Pumori, Mount Nuptse, Mount Cholatse and Mount Thamserku amongst others. From Gorakshep, the group began their final push towards The Everest Base Camp with a 3-hour one sidewalk along the Khumbu Glacier. After walking for the non-stop 2-hours, the end of the Khumbu Glacier came in sight, which marks the beginning of the ascent to Everest.
“Slowly and steadily we finally reached the place where we had once dreamed to be – Everest Base Camp. There was lots of activity with scores of trekkers congratulating each other for having made it so far. Some were even down with tears, including me. We were lucky to have witnessed a live avalanche with a thud in the far distance; a creepy feeling. After having spent an hour admiring the landscape and clicking pictures, it was time to return.”
Following the Everest Base Camp point, the group also trekked to Kala Patthar, which marked the highest peak point so far, that Syed has ever been to at 5550 m. They walked for ~ 12-hours throughout Gorakshep – Kala Patthar – Gorakshep – Pheriche.

Yet, the journey was half done as the group has to walk all the way back Lukla which was at a daunting distance of 65 km, to be covered in 3 days. They started their Retreat trek from Pheriche to Namche Bazaar on the 12th day. It took 10-hour long walk for the trekkers to reach the destination Namche Bazaar. On the final 13th day of the trek, the group reached Lukla after a tedious 20 km walk in 10 hours.
Although the trip was concluded, Syed fell in love with the everyday walking routine. “It felt like just another day in the office. Get up, start walking”.
Along with the trek, the beautiful mountains and the Everest Base Camp; Syed also recalls his fascination towards the locals of the region. He mentions, “One of my favorite parts of the entire trek was observing the daily life in each of the villages we passed through. Families grow their own vegetables, tend their own farm animals, and run their own tea houses. Anything else they need is transported from other villages. People are hard working, polite and humble.”

Syed’s travel bucket list includes climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro and Mt. Elbrus; and giving his passion to trek, they do not seem far-fetched. Syed, also graciously shared few points for anyone taking the trek to the Everest Base Camp:

  1. Flights in and out of Lukla are notorious. A lot depends on the weather.
  2. Have extra buffer days on the trek.
  3. Travel insurance is extremely important especially on high-risk journeys of this stature and magnitude.

If you’ve read so far, we’re sure you must be making up your mind to take this trek or other for your next adventure in the Himalayas. In case you need motivation, Syed puts it in the right words, “Do not be under the impression that you are supposed to do anything. You are supposed to do what you choose to do. Follow your bliss! Stop looking for reasons why you can’t and start looking for reasons why you can and when you realize that you can, you should.”
Syed also had blogged about his trek on his website (https://www.1earth1life.com/)

Here’s what Syed’s trek looks like:

Rekha Jain

I have been travelling across India for a long time and I am using this blog to share my experiences with you so that you can see the tremendous beauty which India has to offer.
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